Beveren Rabbit
The Beveren was recognized in 1898 and was named after the town
of its origin in the Waas region of western Belgium. The original color was a
blue that mostly came about through selection of the self-blue St. Nicholas
(St. Niklass). The early Blue Beverens showed varying depth of color, but the preferred
color by the furriers was a light lavender-blue. Early weights for the breed
were also controversial issues and two types would eventually emerge: the
standard Beveren and a giant form.
Blue Beverens were imported into Britain by Mrs. A.M. Martin and
showed for the first time at Norwich in 1905. Though the judges did not care
for the breed initially, this soon changed. On May 29, 1918 in Birmingham, 17
people met and founded the Beveren Club. The breed quickly grew to become the
most popular fur breed in the United Kingdom. The strong Beveren Club began to
recognize other breeds of fur rabbits and in 1925, changed its name to the
British Fur Rabbit Society and later to the British Rabbit Council.
Both standard and giant Beverens arrived in America about 1915,
but were listed in the standards under the spelling of “Beverin.” By 1919, the
United States had a number of all blue rabbits; American Blue, Blue Beveren,
Giant Blue Beveren, Barbancon Blue, Blue Imperial, Blue Vienna, and Blue
Flemish Giants. Edward H. Stahl of Holmes Park, Missouri imported the Blue-Eyed
White Beveren in 1933 from England where they had appeared as sports (mutants)
in 1916. A black breed known as the Sitka, which was already in America, became
known as the Black Beveren. For some reason the breed never became very
popular.
Today’s Beveren is recognized in three color varieties: solid
blue, solid black, and a blue-eyed white. The fur has a gentle rollback and the
coat should be dense and glossy. Fur length is rather long at 1 1/4 to 1 1/2
inches. This large breed has a pronounced mandolin shape with mature bucks at 8
to 11 pounds and does at 9 to 12 pounds. They are certainly a multi-purpose
rabbit used for meat and fur. Litters are large, the young grow fairly fast,
and the does are typically docile and make good mothers. The Beveren is a hardy
breed that is easily reared in all wire hutches.
A pet rabbit will generally try to eat anything you give it, but its digestive system is very delicate. Care must be taken to prevent common and potentially dangerous digestive disorders
First and foremost, all rabbits need a constant supply of fresh water, changed daily. A rabbit is not able to draw water from the foods it eats. A gravity-fed, cage-mounted bottle will help prevents spills and contamination, but you may need to spend a couple days training your rabbit to use it. If you allow your rabbit to roam outside of its cage (rabbit-proofed areas only) make sure they are able to get back into their cage to drink, or provide another water source.
A constantly supply of hay is also essential, providing important fiber and giving your rabbit something to munch on all day. Timothy hay works best. Alfalfa can also be used, but is lower in fiber and higher in calcium, too much of which can be harmful.
Next is a good quality rabbit chow. This should be given in limited quantities unless you have a pregnant or nursing doe, or a baby less than four months old, in which case a constant supply provides the calories and nutrients their bodies need. Look for a chow that is 16 - 18% protein, no less than 16% fiber and 2 - 3% fat. Feed your Beveren about 1/8 of a cup for every five pounds of weight daily. Never buy more than your rabbit will eat in a month, as pellets can mold and spoil if stored longer.
Food treats make great rewards for cooperative training and can supplement a daily diet. Kitchen scraps are ok, but remove any pits or seeds and never give your rabbit anything close to spoiling. Lettuce, which contains lactucarium, is also a bad choice. Lactucarium can cause severe diarrhea, which can be fatal to rabbits. A frequently changing diet, or new foods added too fast, can also cause problems.
First and foremost, all rabbits need a constant supply of fresh water, changed daily. A rabbit is not able to draw water from the foods it eats. A gravity-fed, cage-mounted bottle will help prevents spills and contamination, but you may need to spend a couple days training your rabbit to use it. If you allow your rabbit to roam outside of its cage (rabbit-proofed areas only) make sure they are able to get back into their cage to drink, or provide another water source.
A constantly supply of hay is also essential, providing important fiber and giving your rabbit something to munch on all day. Timothy hay works best. Alfalfa can also be used, but is lower in fiber and higher in calcium, too much of which can be harmful.
Next is a good quality rabbit chow. This should be given in limited quantities unless you have a pregnant or nursing doe, or a baby less than four months old, in which case a constant supply provides the calories and nutrients their bodies need. Look for a chow that is 16 - 18% protein, no less than 16% fiber and 2 - 3% fat. Feed your Beveren about 1/8 of a cup for every five pounds of weight daily. Never buy more than your rabbit will eat in a month, as pellets can mold and spoil if stored longer.
Food treats make great rewards for cooperative training and can supplement a daily diet. Kitchen scraps are ok, but remove any pits or seeds and never give your rabbit anything close to spoiling. Lettuce, which contains lactucarium, is also a bad choice. Lactucarium can cause severe diarrhea, which can be fatal to rabbits. A frequently changing diet, or new foods added too fast, can also cause problems.
